enemyofjezzuz
New member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2012
- Messages
- 9
With all the fuss about Saturn entering Sagittarius, now is a good time to mention the topic of investing in silver and/or gold. First, I would worry more about Neptune hitting 9 Pisces while Saturn is in Sagittarius, and that will first happen April 17 or 18, 2015 depending on your location. This means, after a peaceful weekend, unsuspecting people are apt to find their assets destroyed.
Bear in mind that this is a financial system crisis, not a war or famine (though it could well lead to disruption in distribution of essential goods). This means that your dollars are not safe. As for whether artificial famine by means of confiscation will happen remains to be seen, but I doubt there will be anyone willing to show up for the purpose of doing door to door raids.
I strongly recommend silver investment. Why not gold? Right now, silver is 4 times undervalued relative to gold, with respect to historical levels. And that doesn't include the developing shortage of silver, or the industrial uses including solar. I don't know what the upside for silver is, but it could be hundreds of times relative to gold. Not only that, but you can get a pretty substantial looking stack without much input while prices are still low.
What kind of silver? Bars are cheaper. Bars larger than 10 ounces are tempting to drill holes and fill them with molybdenum, or plate molybdenum with silver and sell as silver bars. Smaller than 10 ounces, and that is not cost effective. Rounds are harder to fake like this, and getting reputable rounds is recommended. The one ounce size is recommended. So-called junk silver (and I do not agree with that term except that it is jargon for silver coins with little numismatic value) is also recommended if you can get them at reasonable prices. These are easy to recognize, come in small denominations, and are not as daunting to start. If you are brand new, buying a silver dime (a 3 toilet paper investment) is easier than a monster box of eagles or getting into gold.
People that are poor can start slowly. You have those junk coins piling up--the dimes that can fill a coin jar? You have those zinc pennies? If you exchange just 300 of those zinc pennies at the bank or 30 dimes, you can go to the coin shop and walk out with a 1964 silver dime. Understandably, the premiums will be higher at the coin shop and especially in smaller purchases. The Red Book value of a dime is roughly 3 toilet papers for a common date in fine condition (and I see no point in going below fine in recent dates, as many were pulled immediately from circulation in AU or XF conditions). A quarter has a red book value of 7 toilet papers, while a half dollar is 12. That is what you can reasonably expect to pay, and if silver drops sharply the coin shops are slow to respond because they take the market risk and often have to take a loss. Because this could put them out of business otherwise, sometimes they have to pull their coins after an abrupt drop.
With small orders, these higher premiums are lower than shipping charges. However, once you get to around 3 ounces, you are better off going online. You might find good deals on auction sites. Or, you can go to a major dealer. APMEX is the biggest in the country, and they ship in 2-3 business days via Priority Mail. They also carry bulk quantities of items, do not pull items when prices drop (but items may still be out of stock because they sell out), and respond quicker to price drops but again items sell out. Take home delivery--having silver in paper contracts is not reliable because default risk is substantial. Storage at a vault is risky because, in the event of hyperinflation, it could be difficult to get it out of storage. (Bank vaults add the risk of outright confiscation of your silver by the bank.)
Confiscation? There is an outside chance of official silver confiscation. However, as most of the wealth is in toilet paper denominated assets that can be confiscated with a mouse click, I doubt they will come after you for possessing silver. The real silver confiscation is going on now--each time they smash the price down, it suckers people to panic sell their silver. It also scares new investors away. That has the same effect of confiscation, but without the SWAT teams. And, hyperinflation will confiscate the value of your dollars even if no bail-ins happen.
Now, the other objection--silver is not edible. True. However, there is need for some currency. This is a standard means to exchange one value for another. Often, it is impractical to barter directly. So, you pay with money--the purpose of money. Silver and gold are recognized as money. This money is later used to exchange with a value from another source, and can be saved. And, when the new currency comes along, your silver will represent a head start. You cannot exchange our dying toilet paper dollar for whatever is next, as it will be worthless. However, you can exchange gold and silver for whatever is next.
It pays to know how to tell if your coins are silver. Weigh them. A silver quarter is 6.25 grams in uncirculated condition. A dime is 2.5 grams. A half is 12.5 grams, while a silver dollar is 25 grams. Clad coins are underweight. Silver has a distinct ring to it. You can tell a US coin is silver if there are no lines along the edge--clad coins have a darker band there. Silver clad half dollars (1965-69) are silvery with a darker band, while cupro-nickel clad has a brown or red band there. Canadian coins before 1968 are 80% silver, while the 1968 may be silver or pure nickel. If it sticks to a magnet, it is not silver.
You can tell the dates of US coins--any dimes, quarters, and halfs before 1965 are silver. A few extremely rare clad coins dated 1964, which were tests, may be around--check the edge for that band (and, if you find a clad 1964, sell it at once and invest the proceeds into genuine silver because they have high numismatic value now). Halfs between 1965 and 1970 are 40% silver, and you check for the dark band around silvery edges. The later coins are cupro-nickel clad and have a duller gray color with a brown or red band. Some proof coins minted from 1992 are 90% silver and can be treated as such; they also made clad proofs so check that edge for a solid silvery color. Impaired proofs are treated as proofs (except you don't have to be as careful not to mar them), and may be silver if dated 1992 or later. Check that edge--solid silver color means a silver coin. There are also silver clad proof 1976 half and quarter dollar coins out there. I wouldn't waste the time hunting through rolls, as many are already picked clean and it is not cost effective when you could invest the time doing other things.
Of course, all this is in addition to whatever spiritual things you may be doing. Some of you can do money workings and Sun squares to enhance your silver stash and otherwise maintain wealth. You are wise to do your own research, if for no other purpose than to keep up to date with the markets. It is understood that many of us as yet lack the ability to do the money workings or are not consistently able for whatever reason. Hopefully this information, ALONG WITH WHATEVER INFORMATION YOU FIND ON YOUR OWN, will help some of us get started.
Bear in mind that this is a financial system crisis, not a war or famine (though it could well lead to disruption in distribution of essential goods). This means that your dollars are not safe. As for whether artificial famine by means of confiscation will happen remains to be seen, but I doubt there will be anyone willing to show up for the purpose of doing door to door raids.
I strongly recommend silver investment. Why not gold? Right now, silver is 4 times undervalued relative to gold, with respect to historical levels. And that doesn't include the developing shortage of silver, or the industrial uses including solar. I don't know what the upside for silver is, but it could be hundreds of times relative to gold. Not only that, but you can get a pretty substantial looking stack without much input while prices are still low.
What kind of silver? Bars are cheaper. Bars larger than 10 ounces are tempting to drill holes and fill them with molybdenum, or plate molybdenum with silver and sell as silver bars. Smaller than 10 ounces, and that is not cost effective. Rounds are harder to fake like this, and getting reputable rounds is recommended. The one ounce size is recommended. So-called junk silver (and I do not agree with that term except that it is jargon for silver coins with little numismatic value) is also recommended if you can get them at reasonable prices. These are easy to recognize, come in small denominations, and are not as daunting to start. If you are brand new, buying a silver dime (a 3 toilet paper investment) is easier than a monster box of eagles or getting into gold.
People that are poor can start slowly. You have those junk coins piling up--the dimes that can fill a coin jar? You have those zinc pennies? If you exchange just 300 of those zinc pennies at the bank or 30 dimes, you can go to the coin shop and walk out with a 1964 silver dime. Understandably, the premiums will be higher at the coin shop and especially in smaller purchases. The Red Book value of a dime is roughly 3 toilet papers for a common date in fine condition (and I see no point in going below fine in recent dates, as many were pulled immediately from circulation in AU or XF conditions). A quarter has a red book value of 7 toilet papers, while a half dollar is 12. That is what you can reasonably expect to pay, and if silver drops sharply the coin shops are slow to respond because they take the market risk and often have to take a loss. Because this could put them out of business otherwise, sometimes they have to pull their coins after an abrupt drop.
With small orders, these higher premiums are lower than shipping charges. However, once you get to around 3 ounces, you are better off going online. You might find good deals on auction sites. Or, you can go to a major dealer. APMEX is the biggest in the country, and they ship in 2-3 business days via Priority Mail. They also carry bulk quantities of items, do not pull items when prices drop (but items may still be out of stock because they sell out), and respond quicker to price drops but again items sell out. Take home delivery--having silver in paper contracts is not reliable because default risk is substantial. Storage at a vault is risky because, in the event of hyperinflation, it could be difficult to get it out of storage. (Bank vaults add the risk of outright confiscation of your silver by the bank.)
Confiscation? There is an outside chance of official silver confiscation. However, as most of the wealth is in toilet paper denominated assets that can be confiscated with a mouse click, I doubt they will come after you for possessing silver. The real silver confiscation is going on now--each time they smash the price down, it suckers people to panic sell their silver. It also scares new investors away. That has the same effect of confiscation, but without the SWAT teams. And, hyperinflation will confiscate the value of your dollars even if no bail-ins happen.
Now, the other objection--silver is not edible. True. However, there is need for some currency. This is a standard means to exchange one value for another. Often, it is impractical to barter directly. So, you pay with money--the purpose of money. Silver and gold are recognized as money. This money is later used to exchange with a value from another source, and can be saved. And, when the new currency comes along, your silver will represent a head start. You cannot exchange our dying toilet paper dollar for whatever is next, as it will be worthless. However, you can exchange gold and silver for whatever is next.
It pays to know how to tell if your coins are silver. Weigh them. A silver quarter is 6.25 grams in uncirculated condition. A dime is 2.5 grams. A half is 12.5 grams, while a silver dollar is 25 grams. Clad coins are underweight. Silver has a distinct ring to it. You can tell a US coin is silver if there are no lines along the edge--clad coins have a darker band there. Silver clad half dollars (1965-69) are silvery with a darker band, while cupro-nickel clad has a brown or red band there. Canadian coins before 1968 are 80% silver, while the 1968 may be silver or pure nickel. If it sticks to a magnet, it is not silver.
You can tell the dates of US coins--any dimes, quarters, and halfs before 1965 are silver. A few extremely rare clad coins dated 1964, which were tests, may be around--check the edge for that band (and, if you find a clad 1964, sell it at once and invest the proceeds into genuine silver because they have high numismatic value now). Halfs between 1965 and 1970 are 40% silver, and you check for the dark band around silvery edges. The later coins are cupro-nickel clad and have a duller gray color with a brown or red band. Some proof coins minted from 1992 are 90% silver and can be treated as such; they also made clad proofs so check that edge for a solid silvery color. Impaired proofs are treated as proofs (except you don't have to be as careful not to mar them), and may be silver if dated 1992 or later. Check that edge--solid silver color means a silver coin. There are also silver clad proof 1976 half and quarter dollar coins out there. I wouldn't waste the time hunting through rolls, as many are already picked clean and it is not cost effective when you could invest the time doing other things.
Of course, all this is in addition to whatever spiritual things you may be doing. Some of you can do money workings and Sun squares to enhance your silver stash and otherwise maintain wealth. You are wise to do your own research, if for no other purpose than to keep up to date with the markets. It is understood that many of us as yet lack the ability to do the money workings or are not consistently able for whatever reason. Hopefully this information, ALONG WITH WHATEVER INFORMATION YOU FIND ON YOUR OWN, will help some of us get started.
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